What goes around comes around - a visit from Japan

I cannot begin to describe the joy I felt when our very dear friends Yuji (aka Nashville) and Yuko Mizushima told us last year that they would come and visit us in Australia. I mean one has to make the effort to actually come here! Australia is a big and isolated continent, and unlike many other places on earth, you don't just happen to pass by or through. Yuko and Yuji were actually flying over especially to see Alex and I and we were thrilled.

Our discussions began via the internet and on the phone, but by late February this year, it was all becoming very concrete, as Yuji and Yuko began to plan their trip. By early April, we had fixed dates, so that Alex and I could help them organise their time here. Firstly, let me explain who Nashville (Yuji) San and Yuko San are and why they hold a very special place in my heart, and now in Alex's too. I met Nashville San (San is Mr or Mrs in Japanese) and Yuko San more than 10 years ago when I was working in an English school called Nova, in Tsuchiura, some 60 kilometres north of Tokyo. It was in this school that I met my (still to this day) very dear friend Sayuri. And it is through Sayuri that I met her wonderful parents. Also in those first few months (Nov 1998 to March 1999) I met Tony Roberts, who ended up teaching English with me...and subsequently became Sayuri's husband (another long story). I won't leave you in suspense: In brief Tony and Sayuri got married in Hawaii in June 2002 only months after Alex and I got married in New York....and we actually attended their wedding on the way back to Australia! They now have Kai, who is 5 and Alyssa who is 2! Now, who says I can't be brief?

OK, so early in 1999, Sayuri invited a select group of English teachers from Nova to her house (an invitation via her parents), in what ended up being one of the most memorable moments in my life! Yuko and Yuji were the ultimate hosts; Yuko spoke very good English (she is an English teacher) and Yuji certainly got by in mixed English/ Japanese and hand movements. We were firstly placed before a feast fit for a king, with the most amazing Japanese food ever. But it's what came next that would forever remain in our hearts and memories......out comes Yuji with cowboy boots, matching belt, western shirt, stetson hat and guitar, and......wait for it....he starts serenading us with country and western music....in English! You gotta love that! Yuji then proceeded to take us upstairs and show us all of his country and western memorabilia....several more hats, belts, boots, western shirts and guitars. He clearly loved all things western and had been to the southern states in the USA several times. Back downstairs, the singing, dancing and drinking (Asahi beer, sake and umeshu) went on until the wee hours of the morning. This revelry had me dub Yuji, Nashville San! The name stuck and even his own daughter and son-in-law call him this to this day. Nashville San.......yeh, it stuck allright!

The week before Yuko San and Nashville San arrived, Alex and I helped organise their accommodation in Melbourne and Sydney as well as their internal flights between Sydney and Melbourne (they were flying in and out of Sydney with Japanese Airlines). As we chatted we could tell that they were getting really excited, as were we. They were effectively coming to Australia to see Alex and I. You may recall that Alex and I also spent 5 magnificent days with them in Japan in August 2007 when we were travelling around the world. They flew into Sydney on the 20th April and a day later they flew into Melbourne, where Dad and I went to greet them. I was ready with some balloons and a poster which read, "Welcome to Australia Yuko San and Nashville San". Hugs all around...they were finally here. They were so happy to meet my Dad, as I had spoken so much about him. We went back to my house, and Alex literally arrived as we stepped in the door. More hugs all around. That night we took it easy and had a nice easy Italian meal (ravioli, garlic bread and salad) whilst we sat around chatting. They also brought us some lovely gifts from Japan, but for us, the biggest gift was their presence with us here in Australia! Later we drove them to their hotel in the city centre.

The next few days were full on. That is really the only way I can describe them. They had less than a week in Melbourne, and I would be taking a couple of days off, in order to be able to show them around. Dad and I took them to Healesville Sanctuary, which they loved. Luckily the weather was beautiful. We packed a picnic lunch, and stopped at a park in Healesville before continuing on to the sanctuary (which is basically a zoo of native Australian animals). Needless to say, the highlights were the kangaroos and koalas, which most tourists love as they are so unique as they are native to Australia. That night we had a traditional Aussie BBQ at our place, with my brother Fulvio, his wife Karen and my nephew James. I had also organised a surprise: Nashville San had brought his book of songs along, but had mentioned that we would only be able to sing together as he had no guitar. Nothing a phone call couldn't fix! I invited my friend Linda over and asked her to bring a guitar. Well, you should have seen the look on his face, when Linda walked in, and I introduced her......and the guitar! He was rapt! In no time at all, we were all singing along to the country and western songs he was belting out. And.....he sang one song in Japanese and another in Spanish, for good measure. Impressive! A great night was had by all.

The next day, Dad took them to Sovereign Hill , a recreated 1850's Goldfields Township, in Ballarat (just over an hour west of Melbourne). They had a great time walking around, shopping and even taking a ride in a traditional horse and carriage. That night Alex and I took them to Thaila Thai in Brunswick, our favourite Thai restaurant.

The next couple of days were taken up cruising along the Great Ocean Road, via Geelong. We decided that we would go as far as we could on the Friday, and sleep wherever we ended up. Again, lots of fun was had by all. We stopped in Geelong, and then in Torquay, where we had a traditional "fish and chips" lunch, which we ate on the foreshore. Yuko San and Nashville San were truly enjoying themselves. We then passed through Anglesea, Lorne, and ended up in Apollo Bay. The coast line in this area is truly spectacular. I love the way in which your breath is taken away as you come around a bend and see yet another view more spectacular than the last.

The Great Ocean Road is, without a doubt, one of Australia's treasures, as well as one of the world's most scenic roads. That night we ended up at the Dolphin Apartments, where all of us shared an apartment on the third floor. It was a funky set up with two bedrooms, two bathrooms and toilets, yet a shared living area and balcony, with sweeping views of the sea. Yuko and Yuji loved it! After the boys shared a whiskey, we made our way to The Vista Seafood Restaurant, which had been recommended to us, as Yuji loves seafood. I had a lovely vegetarian gnocchi option. It was a relaxing night enjoyed by all.

The weather seemed to get increasingly colder, and the next day it was quite windy. After a not too early get up, I went to the bakery, bought some pastries and came back and organised breakfast....on the balcony, overlooking the sea, of course! After we got ourselves organised, we made our way to the town centre, where our friends took a stroll through the shops before we continued on. We stopped at the Maits Rest Rainforest Reserve and took a stroll through some beautiful natural scenery; Giant myrtle beeches tower in this untouched rainforest, creating a protective canopy above a delicate understorey of tree ferns, lichens and moss. Continuing on, it was the Cape Otway Lighthouse, which is the oldest surviving lighthouse in mainland Australia. We all walked through the grounds and were treated to further breathtaking views. The piece de resistance was the view from the top of the lighthouse. I think our friends were blown away...both physically and metaphorically speaking. Nearing Port Campbell, we visited the infamous Twelve Apostles, another Aussie icon. The remnants from constant erosion of the limestone cliffs of the mainland that began 10–20 million years ago, these structures never fail to impress.

No sooner had we arrived back at our car, after seeing the Twelve Apostles, than it started to rain. Perfect timing! A quick (late) lunch stop in Port Campbell for lunch, and then we made our way back home, via Colac. I think everyone was exhausted upon our arrival back in Melbourne. We helped Yuko and Nashville get all of their luggage to St Georges Motor Inn, only a block from our house, and whilst they were freshening up and getting unpacked, I whipped up a quick risotto and baked a cake. Dinner was enjoyed by all, but we made it an early night, as all and sundry had had a long last couple of days.

On Sunday morning I organised a buffet breakfast at our place. Yuko and Nashville wanted to spend today doing their own thing; catching a tram to the city, shopping, walking around and whatever else took their fancy. Before catching the tram though, we called Sayuri. It was fantastic - there we were all talking to each other. Much of what Yuko and Yuji said was in Japanese, but I could clearly "understand" how happy they were, and furthermore to be able to share this with their daughter. I felt quite emotional actually. And it suddenly hit me.......I was finally able to repay not only some of the kindness that Yuko and Nashville had shown me, but the kindness that so very many people had shown me on so many trips. This was my way of saying thank you, inadvertently, to so many people. What goes around indeed comes around, and I am a true believer that one has to give in order to receive. I have been given so very much over so many years and by so many people. Now, it was my time to give, and it was my absolute honour to be able to do so.

We briefly saw Nashville and Yuko at the Victoria Market, but left them to their own devices. They did quite a lot that day including going to the top of the Rialto for a bird's eye view of Melbourne, and of course ....shopping! Later that night we all went to La Porchetta in Carlton, for some traditional Italian fare, aka pizza. Another enjoyable night, yet I felt a little sad as our time all together was coming to an end. It had been and gone so quickly - they would be leaving tomorrow.

Their last morning with us was spent rather tranquilly. Although Alex had said his goodbyes the night before, they crossed paths houses away from our home as Alex was leaving for work and they were coming for breakfast. We sat and did one last round of chatting over breakfast, after which we went and sent off a small parcel to Japan.....and Yuko San fitted in a tiny bit more shopping, buying herself a top at K-Mart. I have given Yuko a new name.......Shopping San! What do you think Tony and Sayuri? Nashville San and Shopping San!

Finally, time to go to Tullamarine Airport, and share one last coffee together. So, it had all really come to an end! I love hellos, but I am not so fond of goodbyes. Dad and I walked them to the gates (although they were only going to Sydney, they were going on an international flight which was bound for Honolulu), and we hugged lots, took several more photos, and waved goodbye. What amazing people! What amazing friends! Just as Nashville was about to walk through the door, he stopped, opened up a bag which had several hats in it, and passed me the hat he wore upon arrival to Melbourne, and asked me to give it to Dad. We eyes welled up with tears, as did Dad's when I passed it over to him. I gave him a big kiss, and waved them both goodbye one last time. Actions truly speak louder than words! And off they flew to Sydney.

Yuko and Nashville will spend another couple of days in Sydney, before flying back to Japan. I have been calling them each night to see how they are enjoying themselves and they are loving Sydney. They fly back to Japan tomorrow.

Ombi

Dedication: To all the amazing people over the years who have taken me (and Alex) in as we have travelled and given us a place to stay and a meal to eat. Thank you, thank you and thank you again! Finally, I have been able to give to others what others have given to me. No matter what angle you look at this from, what goes around comes around! And thank you Yuko and Nashville San for being our very, very, very special friends. In all of my travels you are two of the most wonderful and special people I have ever met! You are part of our family!

NOTE: This is part of what Yuko sent me in an e-mail upon her return to Japan: "Ombi, Alex and Dino san, you are kind to us and I thank your hospitality. We talked and talked, laughed and laughed, ate and ate together. They are all my good memories in my life."........this is what makes travel so special for me!!!

NOTE 2: You may recall our last Samoa blog, where I mentioned Jacques (spelt with a c!!). I promised that I would set the record straight in my next blog if I stuffed up his cultural background. So...to set the record straight, and straight from the horse's mouth: "By the way I was born in South Africa to South African parents, Great Grandfather was French, Great Grandmother was Dutch."

"You make the world a better place by making yourself a better person." - Scott Sorrell

NEXT: On the 16th May, we leave for a 5 week trip to the Americas; two weeks in New York, and three weeks in Ecuador. Only one day to go!

(Photos: 1.- Welcome to Australia Yuko San and Nashville San, Tullamarine Airport, Melbourne. 2.-Back at Dino (my Dad's) place in Thornbury, Melbourne. 3.-Nashville San doing his thing, Dino's house. 4.- An Italian meal at Dino's house...with the cook (Dino) in the background. 5.-Yuko San and Nashville San at Healesville Sanctuary, Healesville. 6.- Ombi and Nashville San singing away, at Dino's house. 7.- Nashville San checking out the merchandise at Sovereing Hill, Ballarat. 8.- All of us, somewhere along the Great Ocean Road. 9.- Maits Rainforest Reserve, along the Great Ocean Road. Lto R: Nashville San, Ombi and Yuko San. 10.- Yuko and Yuji at the Cape Otway Lighthouse. 11.- Dada............here we are infront of the famous Twelve Apostles. 12.- Talking to Sayuri (Yuko and Yuji's daughter) via skype from Dino's place. 13.- L to R: Yuko, Ombi, Alex and Dino at La Porchetta pizza and pasta restaurant in Carlton, Melbourne. 14.- Yuko and Yuji catch a tram a tram to the city from close to our house in Thornbury, Melbourne. 15.- Saying goodbye at Tullamarine Airport. 16.- Yuji's new hairstyle (aka Alex's hair)!! 17.- BBQ at Dino's house. Lto R: Alex, Fulvio (my brother), Karen (sister-in-law), James (nephew), Yuji, Yuko and Dino.)

Latin Camping Down Under

This Easter was spent on Freddy and Ada’s property, near the township of Glenrowan. So, who are Freddy and Ada, and where is Glenrowan? Freddy, who is originally from Bolivia, along with his Peruvian wife, Ada, were the hosts of “Latin American Camping”, which has now been running for 29 years. They have a little girl called Chaska, and Ada is close to giving birth to her second child. Glenrowan is approximately 220 kilometres north east of Melbourne, and is most famously, or infamously, known as the site of the final siege and capture of bush ranger Ned Kelly and his gang in 1880 (I'm actually quite proud to be able to bring you a bit of Aussie history after so much international one).

Many members of the Latin community have been attending this function for years, as it's a great way for the community and their friends to mix, chat, dance and generally have some good old Latin American fun! Alex and I had never been before. We had been invited by our dear friend Linda, who I believe is the voice of Latin America in Melbourne, and I have thus dubbed her Ms Latin America Melbourne. If you want any information on any Latin American event in Melbourne, Linda will either tell you first, or she will certainly find out about it. Needless to say, being first timers, Alex and I were really looking forward to it. Linda, who has been going for some 20 years, organised a group of us and we were all to set up camp in a designated area on Freddy's property. I was really looking forward to it. I'm a bit like that with anything new. It's the thrill of trying something different and experiencing something new!

Over the last 10 months or so, I have made some amazing new friends, either Latinos or people who have some kind of Latino connection. It all began at Ivan's birthday party mid last year really. Ivan is Peruvian, and it was there that I met Linda, and through Linda, Karen and her Ecuadorian husband Jesus (who are now in Ecuador; take a look at their blog, http://www.llamasbailando.blogspot.com/). It was also through Linda that I met Kirrily. Linda is a match-maker, but not of the romantic kind. She seems to have this amazing ability to be able to connect the right people at the right time. Coincidence or synchronicity? I have no doubt that meeting Linda was no mere coincidence and it has opened up another wonderful chapter in my life!

Kirrily and Linda would be driving up in her car, and Alex and I in mine. It had been a crazy week at work, and I had been too exhausted to pack the night before, so (as usual, my Dad would say) I packed at the last minute, getting up early on Good Friday to do so. Linda and Kirrily arrived at around 10.00am, as we were still madly packing, organising and stuffing. After a quick breakfast and some espresso thrown into a thermal flask, we were off...to the tune of my Dad shaking his head and saying, "You should have left earlier!". He was probably right, but yeh, whatever. The drive up was pleasant enough, even if we were stuck in traffic for the best part of the first hour. We wanted to get out of Melbourne, but guess what....so did half of Melbourne! We made a few stops, had some snacks, drank some (bad!) but free coffee at one of those roadside stops which plead you to take a break and stay alive. OK, OK, it wasn't meant to be gourmet coffee, and the intention of using caffeine to keep you awake wasn't a bad one! Time seemed to roll pleasantly by, and in no time at all we were in Glenrowan, being greeted by the big looming statue of Ned Kelly, who is almost (I said almost!) as popular as he is! We gave him a wave and kept going, as Freddy's property was actually another fifteen minutes or so out of the township.

The rollicking hills behind the township were beautiful, in true Australian country form. I wound down the windows and drew back some of that fresh and unpolluted air. In many ways, we are still the lucky country! We probably rocked up at around 3.00pm, by which time many other campers had already set up, or were in the process of doing so. It was great to see everyone banding together and helping each other out. No cabins here! This was strictly a camping-style set up......big tents, small tents, caravans, marquees.......if the Hilton was your requirement, this certainly was not the place for you! We met Freddy almost immediately, as he was driving around a tractor giving several of the young kids a ride. This all looked like it was going to be fun. I wound down my window and introduced myself.....as you do!

We arrived at our "spot" to find Yoni there first. He was already "set up" as he sleeps in his van. Yoni hails from Peru, and is an amazing jeweller, creating all of his own pieces. They are all made with passion, and are centred around the Pre-Colombian and Inca culture (which as most of you would now by now, holds a very special place in my heart). Each piece is individual, and in fact that is exactly what the name of his business Juklla means. Take a look at his fabulous web site, http://juklla.com/.

In no time at all, we had set up our camp site. No sooner had we finished than the others started rolling in. Our international campsite consisted (apart from Alex, Linda, Kirrily, Yoni and I) of Rosa (from Spain) and baby Indira; Raquel (Bolivia), her husband Bodhi (English but of Sri Lankan extraction) and their children Dylan and Naomi; Matt and Mae (Malaysia) and gorgeous baby Freya. Camped up just behind us were the Elsburys with their beautiful adopted daughter Olivia, who was born in Bolivia.......Olivia from Bolivia! It was a veritable United Nations! Parked not too far from us were Carlos and Nury (Peru) and their beautiful girls, Belinda and Rebecca. Naldo too, who is Carlos' uncle, but looks more like his brother. Staying with them was Tomoko from Japan. Another fun bunch of people...actually Carlos, you are a pisser! You had me in fits of laughter for a lot of the weekend. C'mon, bring the party on!

Freddy and Ada had a great set up, including an undercover area where people could sit and eat, a stage and an area to dance. They had also organised several bands to play over the long weekend, including Inka Marka (which Linda manages), Los Inkas (from Sydney) and possibly Bolivia's most famous singer, Luis Rico. Here in Australia on tour Luis Rico made the effort to come out all the way to Glenrowan. His music was forged during the tumultuous periods of the 60s and 70s under various military coup d’etats and dictatorships in Bolivia. He was definitely a crowd pleaser! Throw in some salsa and some traditional Bolivian dancers (Bolivia Mia, based in Sydney) and folk music, and they had people moving to various grooves over the duration of the entire long weekend.

On the first night, I boogied my butt off...well, salsa-ed my butt off! When I wasn't dancing with Alex it was with Naldo (originally from Peru, and another friend via Linda). We seriously danced for hours. I also attempted to follow Andy Jaregui (originally from Bolivia) and now residing in Canberra, of Los Chavos, dance to some traditional Bolivian music. He is a truly amazing dancer! It was loads of fun but much harder than I thought. I did however manage to keep up with him. I never cease to amaze myself sometimes, as I look back and say, "Did I REALLY dance for that long?"...the answer is usually yes!


I want to add that all of the above mentioned groups, individuals and dancers are accomplished both Australia - wide as well as internationally. Please take the time to take a look at their web sites or links.

On the Saturday morning a small group of us went to Beechworth, for the Easter Golden Horseshoes Fesival. It was nice to get out and stroll around. There were lots of crafty type stalls and the usual food, food and more food. It was a nice excursion. Later that night, there was more dancing back at the ranch, so to speak. Now, did I mention that Matt is a chef? Well, he is, and boy can he cook! He was whipping up some pretty spectacular plates with......whatever was available, really. Sunday was a lazy and laid back day, where all Matt seemed to do was cook....and all we seemed to do was eat. Not sure how exciting this all was for you Matt, but we were all stoked! Whilst some people started to leave on the Sunday, others such as ourselves, stayed around until Monday. You know what they say...when you are on to a good thing, stick to it!

Dancing, eating, campfires, chatting, making new friends...it was all so much fun! But you know what else they say......all good things must come to an end. The time had come...to pack up and say our goodbyes! Last but not least, we went to say goodbye to Freddy, Ada and Chaska, and thanked them for a brilliant 4 days. We will definitely be back! It was mid-afternoon by the time we took off, and before we knew it, we were home.

Next week we would be having our wonderful friends Yuji and Yuko visiting us from Japan, and in May we are off to New York and Ecuador to see Alex's family. I repeat, life really is good....we have nothing to complain about!

Ombi

Dedication: To my "new" friend Linda. Although I have not known you for quite a year Linda, you have been the catalyst for me meeting so many more amazing people. You are a wonderful, bright, intelligent and fun loving person, and I feel proud and honoured to have you in my
life.....as does Alex! Thanks for being you...it's the very reason I love you! Don't change for anyone, except for yourself! I see us being "partners in crime" for a very long time to come!

"Change has a considerable psychological impact on the human mind. To the fearful it is threatening because it means that things may get worse. To the hopeful it is encouraging because things may get better. To the confident it is inspiring because the challenge exists to make things better." - King Whitney Jr.

Note: Jesus (Ecuador) and Karen usually come camping, but this year they did not, as they are currently in travelling in South America. I thought I would pay them homage by putting up a photo of them the night before they flew to Ecuador in February (I miss you heaps guys!!!).

(Photos: 1.- Ombi and Chaska at Latin Camping. 2.-Linda! 3.-L to R: Ombi, Kirrily and Linda at the camp site. 4.- The beautiful countryside around Glenrowan. 5.- The camp site by night. 6.- Yoni and Cesar at the camp site. 7.-The flags of the Latino United Nations. 8.- Ombi and Carlos having a boogie. 9.-Olivia Newton John and John Travolta move over....make way for Carlos and Ombi! 10.- The girls and the iron chef. L to R: Kirrily, Ombi, Linda and Matt. 11.- Matt making donuts....delish!!! 12.- Saying goodbye. The gang from L to R: Ombi, Carlos, Nury, Raquel, Alex, Linda, Mae, Matt, Tomoko and ? 13.- More goodbyes. L to R: Ada, Freddy, Alex, Linda, Leilina and Raquel. 14.- Karen and Jesus' last night in Australia. L to R: Ombi, Jesus, Karen and Linda)

Alex does America.

Everything happens for a reason, or so they say! One good thing to come out of the stuffing up of the dates on our Samoa trip was that we would come back one day earlier, actually giving Alex some time to organise himself to fly out to the States (originally, we would be arriving back in Melbourne on the Saturday and he would be flying to the States the next day; the "updated" version saw us arriving on the Friday, which at least gave him a day to pack). In hindsight (which is truly a marvellous thing, most would agree), he would have been pushing to get himself ready and packed, based on the original schedule. Part of the getting ready phase was as much psychological as anything else, as Alex mentally prepared himself for the transition from laying on a beach in Samoa to the snow and minus temperatures he'd read about in New York!

What was Alex going to the States for, and why wasn't Ombi going? Well, no we're not velcroed together, but for all reasons pertaining to travel, I wouldn't mind to be. On a serious note, he was off to San Francisco to attend the "Apple MacWorld Conference & Expo", on a scholarship he'd won through Melbourne University, where he works in IT. In plain, un-techy language, it means that he went to a conference that delved into all things to do with Apple Macs (to all of you other techno dyslexics.....they are a type of computer, not a new species of apples!) After his week in San Francisco, he also flew to New York to see his mum and little sister, Angie. I was saving my holidays for a New York/ Ecuador trip we had already booked for 5 weeks in May and June of this year.

As I was not there with him, this entry will be short and sweet (a rare occurence!), and I will touch upon some of his highlights. Whilst in San Fransisco, Alex stayed at the Hotel Des Arts, which our friend Richard originally found. Now, you may recall me having mentioned Richard and Jo before. They are two of our dearest friends, and "co-partners in crime" in as far as they love to travel and explore the world on par with Alex and I. We usually play travel tag team, whereby either one of the couples is overseas somewhere. Whilst Alex and I were on our 16 month sojourn, they somewhat grinned and beared it. Now, it was their turn, as they took off in early January to do Central America for 6-8 months. Why would I be jealous? I'd already done it, right? Wrong! Anyway, they would be flying to Central America via LA and San Francisco, and would be in San Fran around the same time as Alex, so.......they would be able to catch up.....and they did....and stayed in the same hotel! Now, you simply MUST take a look at their blog, http://www.thedemeesters.blogspot.com%27/ The photos are amazing!

So, it goes something like this: Ombi (the single girl!) meets Jo and Richard in 1999 on a windswept plain in Patagonia, Argentina. They become friends. Ombi keeps travelling, gets to Ecuador and falls in love with Alex. Upon Ombi and Alex returning to Australia (2000) they catch up with Richard and Jo, and a strong bond and friendship is cemented. Fast forward.........in 2007, as part of their trip around the world, Alex and Ombi meet Ricardo, a Mexican-American, in Guatemala, and another new friendship is born. In January 2009, Alex, Richard, Jo and Ricardo (who lives in San Francisco) all catch up and have dinner together! Now maybe I am getting a little excited.....but you can't tell me that travel doesn't rock! You have to love a story like this!

After almost a week, Alex flew to New York, where he spent some quality time with his mum and sister Angie. It wasn't a week of outings or excursions, but just a time for Alex to reconnect with his mum, and spend some quality time with her. I was so glad that he was able to do this, and I know that he was too. He has a very special bond with his mother, especially considering that they have lived so many years apart. Alex tells me that they chilled out, went shopping together, and just relaxed in each other's presence. Alex's happiness will always be my happiness, and knowing how much this meant to him meant even more to me. Saying goodbye to her this time, I believe, wasn't so hard, as we are both going back there in May of this year. I know, you can't take that travelling "thing" out of us now. It's too far gone!

As you can see, this is my very brief take on Alex's two weeks away. Most of what he felt remains in his heart, and without a doubt, what my words (for once!) cannot convey, his photos will!

Dedicacion: Este blog lo dedico a mi suegra y gran amiga, Rocio. Me siento orgullosa de tenerte en mi vida. Eres una persona muy especial, valiente y buena. Espero que todo lo que das te regresa. Gracias para haberme "prestado" tu hijo Alex, que es la gran amor de mi vida. Acuerdate que siempre vas a tener mi apoyo y mi amor. De tu Gringa Loca que te ama montones, y de parte de tu hijo Alex que te adora.

"The meeting of two personalities is like the contact of two chemical substances: if there is any reaction, both are transformed". - (Carl Jung, 1875 - 1961)......... to all the friends, both near and far who have transformed my life........I love you all, Ombi.

Next: Latino Camping Downunder.

(Photos:1.- Alex and Angie at the Jackson Heights train station in Queens, NY. 2.-Minus 14 degrees celsius in NY. 3.-Alex at the Apple MacWorld Conference & Expo in San Francisco. 4.-L to R: Ricardo, Jo, Richard and Alex catch up for a meal and a chat in San Francisco. 5.-Ricardo and Alex in San Fran. 6.-Alex and his mum, Rocio, in Jackson Heights, Queens, NY. 7.- Alex and Angie having some fun in New York. 8.-Angie and Alex , with the Empire State Building, Manhattan, in the background).

A walk on the "wild" side - Savai'i

The average tourist on a two week sojourn through Samoa usually only gets to Upolu.....well, we aren't "average" and we like to think of ourselves as much more than tourists. This, I feel, is glaringly obvious to most of you by now! Being the culture fanatics that we are, we were going to try and see as much as we could (without cramming) in the short amount of time we had, so clearly, Savai'i, was on the agenda!

Getting there proved to be easy enough. It was a half an hour or so bus ride to Mulifanua Wharf, on the west side of the airport, and before we knew it, we were on a ferry going across. It's only 20 kilometres to Savai'i, and the trip was supposed to take a little less than an hour and a half. The sea was crystal clear, and I was looking forward to kicking back and relaxing on the boat! I....don't ....think.......so!!!!! I was about five minutes into reading my book, when my guts started up with the same kind of fire dance we had seen only nights before! Chucky was on his way, and I'm not talking about that little horror movie demon! I tried everything....Breathe in, breathe out; sniffing some cure all liquid I'd bought in Vietnam; focusing on the horizon! None of it was working, and so, in between belching constantly like I'd just downed a slab of VB, and hanging over the edge to dribble bile, I counted a very, very, very long 100 minutes or so! Can't say that I was distressed when the trip was over. I have never been less interested in crystal waters! Give me some terra firma, please!


On the other side, I was a happy little camper in no time at all. OK, so it was scorching, there was no shade, there were no buses, and the taxis were trying to rip us off! Well, they were milking the fact that our next destination was 40 minutes away, and thus expensive....and that the next bus was not going to be around for hours! Alex and I eyed each other off a few times, giving each other that "do we, don't we" kind of look? We figured that spending the remainder of the day frying in the sun whilst anxiously waiting for the next bus was not really high up on our list of options. We decided to hone in on our negotiation skills, and see if we could get a decent rate via taxi. After asking around and receiving some ludicrous prices, we finally got a really nice guy, who was willing to drive the 45 minutes or so to Manase, in the north, for a reasonable fare.

The drive was spectacular! Straight up, we could see that the island of Savai'i was going to offer us a much more rustic and wilder experience of Pacific life than Upolu. Apart from being the the largest island in Polynesia outside of New Zealand and Hawai'i, it's also mostly uninhabited. The tropical terrain looked spectacular, and the fact that there were far fewer signs of modern life, made it feel like we were in a kind of Indiana Jones does Polynesia movie. There were fales interspersed everywhere, and it was really apparent that on this big island, this was where most of the people lived and slept. Everything seemed all that bit more traditional here. This was going to be exciting!


Upon arrival in Manase, we immediately started our search for accommodation. Manase is still one of Samoa's better kept secrets with its palm-fringed beaches, lagoons filled with wildly coloured fish and jungle-covered hills, but its only slowly coming out of the shade of better known Samoan and South Pacific travel destinations. I say.....shhhhhhh, keep it a secret! Manase is predominantly made up of a gorgeous stretch of beach, and no more than five or six lots of accommodation, which consisted of fales on the beach front. For once, we ended up at the first one we visited, Tanu's Beach Fales.


We were greeted by the fun loving and intensely friendly Peisi (pronounced Bay-C). She won us over before we even got to take a look at the fales. Her right hand person was the equally outgoing Scott, a teenager from Australia, who was here on an exchange. Peisi took us over to a fale right on the beach's edge, and we were enthralled. Simple, clean, open, and we loved it! It was actually going to be our first night in a typical, thatched fale. No sooner had we dumped all of our stuff inside, than it began to pour. Well, I suppose it was the rainy season, and better rain than a monsoon, I say. It was actually lovely to hear the pitter-patter of rain on our roof as we sat inside and watched the sea through our thatched screening. OK, so I bitched about the rain a bit! Once the rain settled, we met our neighbour, Jaques from South Africa/ Holland/ New Zealand. I hope I have this right Jaques...born in South Africa to French parents, who then moved to Holland and who now lives in New Zealand ( I promise a correction in the next blog if I have stuffed this up!) Jaques would only be spending a week or so here, and he told us that whilst his luggage had not arrived yet (clearly it was supposed to arrive with him!), that it was on its way. Yeh, right! Pacific time that is!


Jaques was great fun, and we had a blast interacting with him. He was interesting, funny and knowledgeable - all the traits that I admire in people. He was also a tranquil and patient guy. I have the proof! That bag that was supposed to be "arriving soon" was taking an awfully long time. Alex is right, I would have lost it! Alex offered to lend Jaques some shorts and a t-shirt, but he declined at first......the bag was coming. After a few days of a "bag no show" (in my opinion, under the circumstances, worse than being stood up by a bloke), he readily accepted Alex's offer. Yes the bag eventually resurfaced, but it was several days into Jaques stay at Tanu. Well done Jaques, you taught me a lesson in how to keep my cool!


Tanu fales proved to be lots of fun, and a place where we met lots of interesting people, including the gorgeous Heather, from Jamaica. There were certainly lots of times, and copious opportunities to chat about the meaning of life with Heather. Then there were all the people who had come for various reunions - mostly Samoans, or children of Samoans who were now living mostly in New Zealand. Day time was relaxing, and for me included a run on the beach in the morning, followed by a scrummy breakfast. Later we would snorkel, laze on the beach a bit, go for a walk and pull bananas directly off the trees, and deliver them directly into our mouths. What a life! By this time it would be nearing dinner time, whereby we would all sit around the communal benches, eating, chatting and generally getting to know people. It's a good life, and ain't nobody gonna convince me otherwise!


Night times at Tanu were lots of fun, with the inclusion of family run fia- fias. It really was a deal that involved the entire family, from grandpa, right down to a grandson who could have been no older than one and a half. In between were all the children, in-laws and their children. Again, the spectacular included dancing, fire-dancing and much, much more. It was both entertaining and enthralling. It's amazing how families work so communally and cooperatively here in Samoa.

After a few days, we had to move as we were meeting Shivani and Debbie, and there was no room left in Tanu. With only a cluster of places offering accommodation, it wasn't too difficult to find another place. We ended up at Jane's Beach Fales, which although close to Tanu, felt a little less crowded and more serene. Both were great, offering excellent, but different experiences and vibes. Jane's fales were on a grassy piece of land, and offered absolute waterfront. Each fale, unlike Tanu's also had its own little balcony. It was a little piece of paradise. Bathrooms were shared, as is usually the case in Samoa. Now where Jane's really let the party down was the food. I rarely, if ever see Alex turn his nose up at food, but when his first dinner there came out, (a big chunk of mutton replete with fat), he instantaneously lost his happy camper look. Needless to say, he didn't eat it. My meal.....mixed veggies......cooked in the mutton juice! That certainly didn't cut it for me either!

It was great to see Shivani and Debbie again, and we had a great time just kicking back and relaxing. After night one at Jane's together, with a shocker of a meal, we negotiated next night's dinner at Jane's for a small fee. Well worth it in my opinion. That same night we were treated to yet another fia-fia, followed by lots of dancing. Do you know what it feels like to dance outside, in a tropical country? Perspiration turned into a sweat slide, but we were all in the same boat (no pun intended!), and we were all having so much fun that we didn't care!

On our last day in Manase, a group of us went on an around-the-island bus trip. It was well worth it, as we got to see some sights that we wouldn't have otherwise. Our first stop was in the Falealupo Rainforest Preserve, where we did a great canopy walk. OK, so the bridge was missing, but we were still able to walk up a set of stairs that had us looking well and truly above the top of the tree canopy. The stairs wound and were built around a 225 year old banyan tree, which was spectacular unto itself. The views were breathtaking. To name some of the other highlights: the Alofaaga Blowholes, the lava fields around Mt Matavanu and the Afu Aau Waterfall. Watching the white foam soaring up over the black rocks along the stretch of the coast which is home to the blowholes was impressive, but even more so was watching the locals demonstrate the power of the waves. They did this by tossing a coconut into the blowhole at just the right moment, to send it flying up some 60 metres into the air! The Mt Matavanu eruption between 1905 and 1911 created a moonscape in northeastern corner of Savai'i as a flow of hot lava rolled across plantations and villages, destroying everything in its path. What a sensation to not only be able to see this but to also walk over it! The waterfalls were a relaxing respite towards the end of the day, and a great place to people watch, as it was mostly filled with locals.


Alex and I had decided to make our way back to Apia for New Year's Eve. We thus got up on the last day of the year, had breakfast with Shivani and Debbie and made our way back to Apia. I hoped that the sea was going to be calm, as I certainly was not looking forward to the ferry ride back. Luckily, it wasn't so bad this time. No, I didn't say good, but not quite as bad as the trip over. Having said that, I was glad when the ride was over. We were old hats by now, and knew exactly how to get back to Apia. We were on a bus in no time at all. And again, in no time at all, back at Valentine's for our last night in Samoa, which would also be the last day of the year. Upon reflection, what a wonderful, varied and full -on year it had been! As Alex says, I only know one gear....5th!! (fast and furious).


We had decided that we would see the New Year out at Aggie Grey's Hotel, an institution in Samoa. The original owner, Aggie Grey was an institution herself, and it's well worth reading up about her and her life. We figured that on New Year's there would have to be a bit of a party, but no..... another fia-fia, an excellent buffet, and it was all over by 11.00pm. The fia-fia was great; the dancers were so lively and passionate; the dances talk about their lives, their culture and their way of life. For me, it's so amazing to be able to be a part of their world, even if only briefly, as it's a constant reminder that, without all of this, we each and individually live in a microcosm......and our world is so very much more than this! We walked home, as we pondered the meaning of life. Another day, another year!


The next morning we got up early, and packed our bags. We had no intention of stuffing up the flight home! We weren't going to play "three times un-lucky"! We said goodbye to all at Valentine's, including the gorgeous Agnes, who was always so pleasant and affable, and told them all we'd be back. Samoa had touched our hearts. Such breathtaking beauty and such happy and friendly people. Our taxi arrived on time, as Debbie and Shivani had organised it for us, as they had passed by Valentine's before meeting us in Savai'i. The guy was great, and as we drove to the airport he told us that his wife had just had a baby.....just as in the night before! He was stoked! And we were stoked for him! His happy-go-lucky demeanour left us feeling recharged. Just as we took off, the skies opened and it started raining elephants and giraffes. Glad we had not experienced this prior. Good timing! As we were dropped off at the airport, we paid our driver and gave him a bit extra.......after all, he had a great attitude to life, it was the New Year and he was a new Dad! Life was great for everyone!


In no time at all, we were on the plane, flying back to Melbourne. It seemed so long ago that we had flown over to Samoa, yet it had also gone so fast. I love what life has dished out and continues to dish out to me! I closed my eyes during take off, and pondered what I had just experienced. Wow!


Next: Alex does America!


"Our loyalties must transcend our race, our tribe, our class, and our nation; and this means we must develop a world perspective." - Martin Luther King Jnr.

(Photos:1.- The ferry crossing from Upolu to Savai'i. 2.- Savai'i bus. 3.-Fales along the Savai'i coastline. 4.- The clear blue waters and sparkling white sand of Manase Beach, Savai'i. 5.-The view of Manase Beach from our fale at Tanu's Beach Fales. 6.-New friends and happy times, from L to R: Jaques, Shivani, Alex and a Samoan friend. Front row: Debbie and Heather. 7.-Communal breakfast at tanu's Beach Fales. 8.- Fire dancer, Tanu's Beach Fales. 9.- Beach front fale at Jane's Beach Fales, Manase Beach. 10.- Traditional dancers at Tanu Beach's fia-fia. 11.-Coconut throwing at Alofaaga Blowholes. 12.- Traditional dancer at Aggie Grey's Hotel New Year fia-fia. 13.-L to R: Ombi, Tine and Ray at Valentine's Hotel, Apia. 14.-Ombi and Alex at Aggie Grey's on New Year's Eve.)

Seaside bliss - Samoa.

As soon as our travelling debacle had been solved, we felt a huge weight come off our shoulders, and it is only after that point that we really felt that we had truly landed in Samoa. As soon as we walked out of the Polynesian Blue office, which was right in the centre of Apia, we breathed in the fresh air, and walked along the waterfront. The walk takes you up and around the Mulinu'u Peninsula, which stretches out into the South Pacific Ocean to the north west of central Apia. It was a great way to "start"our trip, as we were able to observe much. As in any country, its waterfront usually boasts a lot of activities and is a great place to people watch. Although it felt quite warm, and we wearing sunblock, it was very windy, which made it feel not so hot. Having said that, we would later learn, that we had slowly fried!

The Samoans really are a friendly bunch of people, and are always quick to greet you with talofa, which is the island's version of hello. The official language is Samoan, but many also speak English. Whilst we always make an effort to learn at least a small array of words in the language of the country we are going to, we had no trouble at all using English in Samoa. Like any place in the world, responding in someone's native language shows respect and that you are showing interest in their culture. The advantage of this is that people will then often go out of their way to help you, as you have also gone "out of your way". Also immediately obvious was how laid-back and relaxed they are as a people. Despite the fact that it was only a few days before Christmas in this an almost 100% Christian country, nobody seemed too frantic or stressed out. We (or certainly I!) could take a few leaves out of their book! We walked past lots of monuments and memorials, as well as lots of people laying down in the shade, on the grass, under the copious amounts of coconut trees (we should have taken our cue from them!). The flea market was very interesting, more so for the people that worked there than for what was actually sold. The usual suspects abounded - thongs, rip-offs of crocs (which have almost joined Heineken beer and Pringles in the "products taking over the world" stakes), lava-lavas (traditional skirt-like article of clothing worn by people in many Polynesian countries), and jewellery made with coconut shell. The exception was the various beautifully carved hardwood bowls and plates available. We eyed off a few, and decided that we would buy one before leaving the country.

Food? On vegetarians and vegans, the Lonely Planet guide simply states, "It's tough". Having read this before I left, my expectations weren't all that high, and we did bring a range of snacks (such as nuts and muesli bars) along with us. I am a fairly "liberal" vegetarian, and whilst I don't do the meat thing, I do consider myself a "meat flicker". I believe that people who really travel off the beaten track and love to backpack have to be a tad more flexible. Hard -core anything can lead to problems! Having said that, they just LOVE mutton in Samoa, and many places reeked of mutton fat, which to be blunt, I found rather repulsive. Not because it was meat (I am not "one of those" types of vegetarians), but because it smelt old and of urine. Even Alex agreed, and (drum roll) even HE knocked it back on more than one occasion. For those of you who don't know Alex that well, he rarely, if ever knocks back any food! They are also very much into taro, which is a root vegetable and an excellent source of carbohydrate. It's not bad really, but they seem to simply serve it up plain, and with other foods such as rice and fuata (breadfruit). So, it's a bit like carbs, carbs and more carbs! The liquid version would be a bottle each of Coca-Cola, Fanta and Pepsi. A bit of overkill really! But I did find something that I really loved, and was able to readily get at the market -palusami, which is basically young taro leaves and coconut cream - yum! There was also a fresh fruit and veggie market, Maketi Fou, near our hotel, and here we had no trouble finding things such as mangoes, papayas, delectable bananas and other fresh produce. Like any country, its markets are its backbone, and no matter how big or small, you are sure to walk away with some understanding of the way in which people live. As I have mentioned many times before, I love markets, as for me they are the soul of its country!

We got home quite tired on our first night, as we had walked a lot in the heat, and had (surprise, surprise) actually gotten quite burnt. Despite the fact that we were tired we made our way to a fiafia, at a venue not too far from where we were staying. A fiafia is a Samoan feast that includes dancing, singing and the famous fire-dancing. We had read and heard about it and so wanted to check out on one or two. The other bonus is that it is usually preceded or followed by a buffet. Alex's dream come true! The venue where we saw our first fiafia was called Laumei Faiaga (in English, and very aptly named, Turtle Take It Easy). In this instance, the buffet came first, and is really the place where I first tried and fell in love with palusami. We were then treated to both traditional Samoan dancing and also to the "Fire Knife Warriors", which was truly amazing. We went to bed that night with a really nice taste in our mouths, so to speak, and we intrinsically knew that we were we were just going to love our time in Samoa.

Breakfast the next morning at Valentine's was great; between 8am and 9am as things are done early here, to beat the heat. We were served by the lovely Agnes.....bread, jam, eggs and coffee. No rush! Nobody seems to rush in Samoa! So, we took our time, as we looked over the gorgeous open garden in front of us. What a life! I took a deep breath in, and a magnificently slow one out. I live for this! I have come to relish my holidays with a deep-seated passion. I now know and accept that travel is what REALLY makes me feel most alive and happy (apart from my beautiful partner and soul mate, Alex!) Over breakfast we chatted to Debbie and her gorgeous daughter Shivani (as time would tell, her beauty was far more than skin deep), who were also guests at the hotel. We had met them briefly the morning before, but due to the ticket fiasco, I had not been all that focused. They were spending several weeks in both Tonga and Samoa, and so were giving us tips on where to go and what to see. Traveller to traveller information, effectively referrals, are always the best way to go. They were going back to Lalomanu Beach, on the south-east end of the island, and told us to meet them there, even giving us the name of a place to stay. Sounded good. They were off on that day, and we said we would make our way over tomorrow, as we still wanted to explore a bit of Apia.

Just to quickly clarify, the Samoan islands are divided into two political entities: Samoa and American Samoa. Samoa was formerly known as Independent Samoa (or Western Samoa), but in July 1997 the island nation officially adopted the name Samoa. Samoa's two main islands (of which we visited both are Upolu (Apia being the capital) and Savai'i.

We spent quite a tranquil day, taking in the sights of Apia and its surrounds. Due to its past, it is indeed scattered and interspersed with dilapidated buildings, architecture and a multitude of churches, but that really is part of the charm. As for the fume-belching cars (some of which seem as old as the buildings they weave through!), they definitely did not provide us with the fresh air we thought we'd come for. We took our first island bus, an experience unto itself, just 30 minutes out to the Piula Cave Pool. Sitting on the sea, it is totally freshwater, and was a great way to wile away a couple of hours. On the bus back to Apia, with people stacked up like dominoes (the Samoans have quite a different take on personal space), we got off near the edge of town near the wharf, so that we could check out the Palolo Deep Marine Reserve. Whilst we did strap on our snorkelling gear, as suggested, we were not all that impressed with the coral. As we walked back to Valentine's we popped into the infamous Aggie Grey's, which to be quite honest, I thought was both overpriced and overrated. Having said that, and on a good note, it's really the only place that provides a home away from home. No thanks!

The next morning, we were off to Lalomanu Beach, where we spent a sublime 4 days, including Christmas. I should mention Verona and Justin's 5 children, Mesepa (Sepa), Justin, Ray, Valentine (Tine) and Verona. What wonderful kids! Friendly, chatty, playful and fun-loving! I often looked at them and thought how much our own kids could learn from them! There was a zest for life that I so often see lacking in western cultures. I will always remember their hugs, and their manners.

And so, with breakfast downed, goodbyes and Christmas greetings uttered, backpacks packed, we were off to the local bus station, and on our way to Lalomanu Beach. What time did the bus leave? Yeh..............whatever! They seemed non-plussed, so why should we? It was about a two-hour ride, along Upolu's gorgeous south-eastern coast. The bus was full of people, boxes and an array of other things, and remember it was the day before Christmas. That dominoes kind of feel reined supreme! After a couple of hours we were there, and begun our search for Taufua Beach fales. I should explain that a fale is basically an open- style thatched hut, and is a traditional example of Samoan architecture. Due to the heat it is very popular, and used by locals and foreigners alike. As soon, as I hopped off the bus, I did the usual; Alex looked after the bags, and I searched for the accommodation. In no time at all, I had found Taufua. Wow!!!! Blue skies and seas, and thatched huts literally on the sand metres from the sea. Now THIS is what I call utopia! Tina, from New Zealand, helped us out and told us that indeed Shivani and Debbie were staying there. In no time at all, I had collected Alex, been given a hut to stay in and caught up with the girls. I felt relaxed and at peace.

That night we were treated to a fiafia organised by Taufua fales. It was not a formal affair, but rather one where all the locals joined in. It was magnificent. Taufua Fales had a central dining area, where all the guests come together. Both breakfast and dinner (buffet style) are included in the price, and the food here was without a doubt the best we had in Samoa. Taufua Fales is owned and run by the amazing Tai, an intelligent yet humble woman who went out of her way to make her guests feel at ease. More on her later! Christmas Day was a casual affair, and despite the fact that Samoa is almost exclusively Christian, they don't seem to get caught up in all of that commercial hype which I have so grown to detest. For the Samoans it's clearly about spending time with family and friends and not about Christmas trees, ostentatious gifts and plasma TVs. Alex and I spent our time here reading, relaxing, swimming, sun-baking (well me, anyway), going for runs on the beach (me again!), snorkelling and eating! What more is there to do? Oh yes, and plenty of talking!

As we still wanted to visit the island of Savai'i, we had to make tracks. Tai offered to give us a lift back into Apia on the morning of the 27th December, as she had to go in for supplies, but we would have to get up early as she would be leaving at 5am. Whilst it sounded a bit hairy, we accepted! It was well worth it, as we had a really good chat to Tai, and saw things and met people we probably would not have otherwise. I want to share a story that Tai shared with us on the way to Apia: She told us that her 16 year old son had just spent a few days, including Christmas, in prison. I asked her why! She quite simply and clearly stated that she had often told him that if she caught him smoking marijuana, she would call the police. (Whilst hard drugs are not readily available in Samoa, due to the climate, marijuana is). Apparently, a few days prior, she caught him and a couple of friends in a room smoking, so she promptly called the local police, who gave the boys a talking to. Whilst the police were happy with the outcome, Tai clearly was not! She MADE them take the boys to a prison in Apia, where they spent the next few days. She believes in nipping things in the bud! Her comment to me was, "Marijuana today, what tomorrow?". Her son apparently had thought prison horrendous and apologised profusely to his mother. Maybe he would think about his actions more than twice next time, his mother said. How many western mothers would have done this? Tai, I was impressed by your actions.

Once in Apia, we went to the fish market, which was buzzing with locals. There, Tai sat with one of the local vendors, chatting to her and others and ordered a guy called "Nico" to buy some coffee and "Samoan donuts" (deep fried pastry balls). What a great way to observe Samoan daily life. Nico was an interesting character. We had a good chat and he told me that he was currently serving 5 years in prison (he was half way through), for growing a few marijuana plants. The law is tough here, yet prisoners are allowed out on weekend, including murderers. Nobody really watches them- 5 days on the inside and 2 days out! Nico was not doing community service, he simply wanted to help out in the market. A completely different system to our own!

Later Tai dropped us off at the bus station, and we took the half hour bus ride to the north-western tip of the island, where we were to catch the one and a half hour ferry trip to Savai'i. It was only 9am, as we had gotten up and left Lalomanu so early. In no time at all, we were at the wharf, where we would catch the 10.00am ferry across.

Samoa was proving to be a fascinating place!

Next: The island of Savai'i.

Dedication: I would like to dedicate this to a few people.

Mesepa, Justin, Valentine, Ray and Verona: Thank you for your laughter, your smiles and your cheeky grins. Thanks for reminding us about what is important in life. Maybe you are too young to understand, but it is our meeting people like you that changes our lives forever. We hope to come back and see you again!

Tai: What a woman! What a person! I know plenty of people that could learn a whole lot off you!

Nico: Thanks for sharing, and for being so open with us!

"Action may not always bring happiness; but there is no happiness without action." - Benjamin Disraeli.

(Photos: 1.- Apian waterfront. 2.- Local bus, Apia. 3.- Fuata (breadfruit), local Apian market. 4.-Fire-dancing at a fiafia, Laumei Faiaga, Apia. 5.-L to R: Debbie and Shivani. 6.- Even the dogs have it right in Samoa.......Work Hard, Party Harder (as seen above the door of a bar in Apia). 7.-L to R: Ray and Tine (Valentine) at Valentine's Hotel, Apia. 8.-Lalomanu Beach, as seen from our balcony (That's right...our balcony! We were literally staying right on the beach!) 9.-Tai strumming her guitar, Christmas Eve. 10.- Beautiful Lalomanu Beach, at dusk. 11.- At the fish market., Apia. 12.-Turquoise waters and blue skies...a taste of Savai'i. 13.- Ombi and Nico at the Fish Market, Apia).

These are times of fast foods,but slow digestion!

I usually end each of my entries with a quote, but this time, it is the way I will begin:

"We have bigger houses but smaller families;
We have more degrees but less sense;

more knowledge but less judgements;
more experts but more problems;

more medicines, but less healthiness.

We've been all the way to the moon and back,

but we have trouble crossing the street

to meet the new neighbour.

We build more computers to hold more information,

to produce more copies than ever,

but we have less communication.

We have become long on quantity

but short on quality.

These are times of fast foods,but slow digestion;

tall man, but short character;

steep profits, but shallow relationships.

It is time when there is much in the window

but nothing in the room." - The Dalai Lama

I found this a few days ago, as I was searching for a quote for our last blog, the first of our Samoa blogs. I read it the first time, and felt a knot in my throat; I read it a second time and felt a throb in my solar plexus; I read it a third time, and the tears ran down my face. I read it a fourth time and just felt very, very sad.

There is so very much about what the Dalai Lama states, that is tragically so very true. We seem to have come so far, yet we seem to have learned so little. In a time when we have so much more physically, we seem to have so much less spiritually and emotionally. The question is: Where do we go to from here? How do we move forward in a positive way? How do we make helping people a meaningful priority rather than conveniently ignoring them when they are in need? When do we stop throwing cigarette butts on the ground because someone is watching us instead of because of the fact that they take 200 years to decompose and damage our earth? When do we stop buying material goods when what we have is adequate? When do we refrain from buying a car that is the next model up, as the one we currently have suffices? When do we say NO, enough is enough?

I am neither an optimist nor a pessimist, and regard myself as a realist, but I cannot help but wonder what the future holds and will bring for our future generations -our children's children. In the future, where having "everything" will come easy, or easier than now, when we have 3 houses, 2 holiday houses, 5 computers, 5 cars, all the computer games we can get our hands on, the latest 4 mobile phones, i-phones and whatever else comes out next.....what do we then aspire towards? What next?

It is indeed a time when there is "much in the window but nothing in the room."

Ombi

A total and complete balls up!

Christmas at home? C'mon, give me a break! I'm already conforming to the world of work and employment, ain't that traditional enough? With the opportunity of almost two weeks off over Christmas and the New Year, I knew that it was only a matter of "opportunity". The question was, what opportunity? The one that went...."where will we go this time?" To be honest, I began thinking about this "opportunity" not long after I began my new job in June 2008, and as soon as I knew that we would have time off over Christmas and the New Year.

So, how and why did we pick Samoa? Well, we had already decided that we would be going to Ecuador and the USA for 4-5 weeks in mid-2009, so we wanted something that was clearly not too expensive, wasn't touristy, and we'd never been to before! Before too long, we came up with the Pacific Islands, and through a process of elimination we ended up with Samoa. But it was cyclone season in December! Yeh, so it was, but the beaches looked gorgeous, the fares were decent for that time of the year, and the small country, which is effectively a few small islands, appeared void of those things called resorts! Cocktails, beer, western food, bikinis, white t-shirts with gold writing? I say leave that to your own country! (If you live in a western one!) In the grand scheme of things, it was all looking good! So, being the risk-taker that I am, I figured we'd give it a go!

Now, for two well-travelled persons, having globe-trotted the world, we totally screwed up not only our flight over, but back as well. They say that there is as first time for everything. On this trip, there was a first, followed very closely by a second! We did it in style and it was a monumental fu..........oops, proverbial! My years of studying Drama at university proved efficacious, and in theory, we probably should have missed our trip altogether.

Please allow me to set the scene: It's 3.15pm on Sunday afternoon, 21st December. There I am, in my shorts and singlet top, having recently come back from the gym. Our backpacks are on the floor, as are most of the clothes and goods we are taking overseas, and we are getting our last bits and bobs ready. I always leave a copy of our passports, tickets, insurance and other relevant details with my dad (affectionately known as Doobie....another story, for another day). As I am checking something on the computer, Doobie casually strides in (with a copy of our itinerary in his hand) and says, "Ombi, I think there's been some kind of a mistake, but this says that you were supposed to have left a couple of hours ago!" My heart sank to my ankles in a nano-second, as the only thing I could compute was, "F@#& we missed our flight!" As he handed over the bit of paper, and I indeed physically saw our error, I felt nauseous, whilst at the same time trying to work out how we were going to get out of this one! After repeating that same four letter word copious times, I went into fight or flight mode! I wanted that flight badly! I did not care about the money, but I wanted to be overseas! Think Ombi, think, think!!!! Everything else was a blur, as my mind scrambled for a solution!

By this stage, Dad had discreetly walked out, as he figured it was pretty much all over red rover! Not I, said the hen! Conversing only with myself, and with a determined focus, I ran to dad and told him that I was just about to call Polynesian Blue (Virgin Blue) and extend the truth; tell them that he had not been well, and that he, and not our flight was a priority. I did not ask anyone's opinion or advice, and swiftly made THAT phone call. Sounding distressed, and armed with the gift of the gab, seemed to do the job, and $200.00 later, we would be catching a flight the next morning at 9.15am, on Monday the 22nd. It was an el-cheapo flight so in theory, no changes could be made. The cancellation and transfer fees were waived, and all we had to pay was the difference between the tickets we had already bought, and the cheapest ones available on our new flight. Quite frankly, I thought that $200.00 smackeroos was a bargain! Alex shook his head at my acting efforts, but was amazed that I had pulled it off! We were going to Samoa, like hell or high water!

Relieved, we continued to pack, and get ourselves organised....as I had these visions of arriving at the airport the next day all ready to rock and roll, and being told, "You missed the boat (well, plane!) love!" I shuddered! How did we manage to stuff up the date? Who knows? Confusion around the date and time I guess, as Samoa is almost 24 hours behind Australia! Glad with all of that hoo-ha behind us, we finished packing, had a decent night's sleep, got Doobie to drop us off at the airport, and caught our flight out to Samoa the next morning. The routing was Melbourne to Auckland and then Auckland to Apia (Samoa). The flight was fine, and we arrived at 7.35pm.........on the night before the day we left! Got that? Left at 9.25am on the morning of the 22nd of December, and arrived at 7.35pm, on the evening of Sunday the 21st of December. Confused? I certainly was!

It was hot and humid, and we made our way to Valentine's Motel, near the centre of town. We had done some research, and figured that we should book the first few nights, until we'd figured out what to do, where to go and what to see. Hadn't we organised our holiday? Of course we had! We'd booked the flights and purchased the Samoa Lonely Planet Guide! It was around 9.30pm, by the time we got ourselves to the hotel, where we were greeted by Justin, and his beautiful and hospitable wife, Verona. I was trying to explain that I had erred with the days we wished to stay as we had missed our flight. Justin was looking at me a little baffled! We eventually worked out that I had NOT mucked up the reservation exactly because I HAD made that mistake in the first place. This was proving to be a comedy of errors. I was not so much physically tired as I was mentally tired. All things cleared and sorted, we were soon in our very simple, but clean upstairs room. Almost ready to go to bed, I had this feeling that I should check our tickets again...........but wait...there's more!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Yep, it's the famous 6 free steak knives!!!!! My eyes bulged out of my head, with the grim realisation that we had also made a mistake with our return flight!!!! Uttering that famous four letter "F" word several more times, both out aloud and under my breath, Alex wanted to know what was wrong. So, I told him: We were supposed to be flying home early afternoon on Saturday 3rd January, to be arriving later that night, or so we thought. But, with the time difference, we would actually be arriving on Sunday the 4th, at night. Is there a problem? Well, seeing that Alex had to catch an early afternoon flight on the Sunday, to go to San Francisco for a computer conference, I was figuring that we had a mini-disaster on our hands. Needless to say, our first sight-seeing trip would be to the Polynesian Blue office early the next morning. I truly could not believe this was happening. Alex was actually far more tranquil than I was, despite the fact that the urgency was to change his flight and not mine!

Goodnight! We went to bed exhausted!

Rise and shine! Off to the Polynesian Blue office we go. I mean, how else does one begin their Samoa experience? The office was full of Samoans! My heart sank! We had been lucky getting over here, but I figured changing the return flight wasn't going to be so easy. Apart from the fact that it was possibly going to cost a small fortune to get back, I was doubting whether there would even be flights available. We had already "pushed our luck" getting over here! We discussed that we would probably have to get a new ticket for Alex, as it was imperative, and that I would stay on the extra day. Lady Luck, however, was clearly on our side. The lady in the office was most courteous and helpful, and she called Polynesian Blue in Australia, so that I could try and sort it out. After a tense 10 minutes as the Australian lady spoke to her supervisor and searched for the availability of flights, we were told that there were only 2 places left on the morning of Thursday the 1st January, arriving late at night on Friday the 2nd (remember that the flight itself is only 7 hours or so). Again, we would not have to pay cancellation or transfer fees, but the difference between our original "cheap" ticket and the cheapest one that was now available. At this point, we did not care what we would have to pay. Surprisingly, it was only $225.00 each! I thought it was going to be way more than that! Needless to say, we were relieved, and now we would be able to really begin our holiday! In actual fact, we had neither gained nor lost any of our holiday time, as our errors saw us "gain" upon arrival, and "lose" upon departure.

There really is a first time for everything, and like most things we do, we did this in style! A total balls up of humongous proportions. We figured that an extra $600.00 for two errors of this magnitude was a real bargain! As my mum would have said, "Everything apart from death can be fixed!"

Too right! Let the Samoa experience begin.

Ombi

"I'd rather regret the things I have done than the things that I haven't." - Lucille Ball.

(Photos:1.- Self portrait, Ombi & Alex in Apia, Samoa. 2.-Uninhabited bliss, Lalomanu Beach, 'Upolu. 3.- Take off, Samoan-style, 'Upolu Island, Samoa. 4.-The Samoan flag. 5.-Ombi & Verona, Valentine's Motel, Apia, 'Upolu. 6.-Traditional Samoan flower, with spider on leaf. 7.- The "window" of opportunity; Manase beach as seen from Tanu's seaside fales ,where we slept,, Savai'i, Samoa.)

The race against time, greed and ourselves.

2008 was an incredible year, which whizzed by at a speed I would have formerly thought of as impossible. Sadly, since our 16 month trip around-the-world was completed on Christmas Day 2007, I have not written a solitary blog. There seems to be no time. Or……is there? Am I getting older? Is the world spinning faster? Am I procrastinating? Simply making excuses? Upon reflection, the answer still eludes me, but I am aware that I have neglected both a passion and something which I love doing….telling many a story in the only way I know how to: with honesty, intensity, integrity and passion, even if at times blunt! You either love it or hate it; it’s my truth and my reality…..the world according to Ombi! It’s been a long time between breaks, but I am back on board, committed to sharing my love of both travel and the people who live in our fascinating world. With excuses, aside, I am ready to say……”let the show begin”!


Before I lunge into it, I want to thank Alex for his amazing photos. What I do with words, he does with photos. Someone asked me only today, “How long does Alex take to frame those shots?” The answer is that most of the shots (99.9% of the photos used on our blog have been taken by Alex) come from the heart, and are the result of a passion for the people and cultures of this world. The photos speak for themselves……my words describe Alex’s photos and his photos describe my words. And in both cases, they describe OUR world. The world as seen, loved and admired by Ombi and Alex. Thank you Alex for sharing and understanding my world. I know that understanding your world, has shaped me into the person I am today.

Since that long journey, we have been on two shorter trips; back to Thailand in May/ June 2008 and Samoa, in Polynesia, in Dec08/ Jan 09. Both trips were for approximately 12 days. The Thailand trip was in order to take a “break” before beginning my new job in June, and the Samoa trip was, well………………..aren’t I due for a break 6 months into my new job anyway?
I want to say, “I will give you a condensed version of this year’s events”, but as Alex would respond, “There is NO condensed version with Ombi!” OK, that’s true, so bear with me, this entry may be skewered and I may go off on a tangent, but I will try and pin point some highlights as well as low lights.




Coming back on Christmas Day (2007) was fun, as we had not seen our family for so long. My cousin Moz was down from Mildura, with his partner Marie. Rumour had it that they guessed we were arriving. Dad, affectionately known as Doobie, Doobs, Doo Bee or the Doobster, had told my brother and sister-in-law, Karen, that he was running a little late for lunch, as he had to pick “something” up! Yeh, pick something up on Christmas Day! Super sleuths Moz, Marie and Karen all smelt a rat! Having said that, it was great to see their faces as I knocked on their door and then asked if I could join them for Christmas lunch.


After a month of talk-to-the-hand, we do not want a job yet, our search began in earnest in February 2008. Finding a job was proving to be a hard slog, as we both wanted something we were passionate about and really wanted to do. Beggars cannot be choosers, I know, but luckily, we were not beggars and so had the luxury of choosing. Having said that, in our quest for the ideal job, which took several months, we also realised what a tough world it must be out there for those who cannot choose, due to a multitude of mitigating circumstances. Alex was first; he got a part time job at St Vincent’s Institute, employed by Melbourne University. That was back in April 2008. In this job he works as an IT Officer, and works mostly with Apple Mac computers. What do you mean you don’t know what an Apple Mac is? Are you a pleb? Congratulations, you have joined my rank! You know, it’s that fancy schmancy system that does not attract viruses, is “easier” to use and has people like Alex enthralled and waxing lyrical about. We should ALL have one! But it’s so much easier to work with the devil you know, that’ll be the PC mate! One thing led to another, and a couple of months later, Alex got another part-time job, also with Melbourne University, within the Faculty of Law. Both faculties are in the City/ Carlton, and easily accessible by transport. Wednesday is his crossover day, where during his lunch break, he walks from one faculty to the other. These two jobs effectively constitute full time work. Alex is enjoying it and learning a lot. He won a scholarship (through Melbourne University) to attend a week at the Apple Macworld conference and expo in San Francisco, which he attended in January 2009 (more on this later).

I, in the meantime, was looking, looking, looking, and trying a number of different avenues to find my dream job, or at least something I felt strongly about. After a few months I was in Hay’s Recruitment in the City, when someone told me about this job at Vision Australia (Vision Australia assists people that are vision impaired and/ or blind). The role was that of a BDM or Business Development Manager, whose role it would be to bring work into a factory whose workers were blind or vision impaired. It certainly sounded like something I was capable of doing, and I knew that my strength also lay in the conviction of wanting to help people. I pursued this and was finally offered an interview, and subsequently the job. I was to start on June 10th. Of course I was excited, but……..you all know how much I hate shopping (true!) and I figured that I now needed a semi-corporate wardrobe. The thought of spending a week, or at least a few days, on a Melbourne shopping spree was making me feel nauseous, so I came up with an idea……How about we go shopping in Thailand? I am sure I answered my own question before I had even asked Alex, but needless to say, he obliged. So, with a trip organised with some of our Qantas Frequent Flyer points, we were off!

This trip was only to be in Bangkok, and whilst beaches were not on the agenda, good Thai food, massages, manicures, pedicures and facials were, oh……..and of course shopping! As we had only just returned from there in December of 2007, we knew exactly where to stay – our tried and true Lamphu House, and where to go shopping! We also managed to catch up with Pong and Link (you may recall that we went o their wedding last December), which was lovely.

From June until December 2008, the hours seemed to blur into days, the days into weeks and the weeks into months. I am not sure exactly how this happened, but it did, and with this “lack of time” came the incapacity to indulge in my blog writing. Work seemed to be taking up such a huge chunk of my time, and Alex’s too. Full time workers, 9 to 5, washing, ironing, cooking, cleaning, late nights. Where could we buy or borrow more time? Was there a shop that sold it? In my case, my learning curve in the first few months was steep, and this in itself often left me exhausted. This was actually the case for Alex too. By September, I knew that we would have a week and a half off over the Christmas break, and so, of course with Alex on board, I started to look at another overseas getaway destination. It needed to be not too expensive and not too far, as we were already planning on going to Ecuador and the USA to see Alex’s mum next year (2009). So, after some research, we decided on Samoa in Polynesia . Why? Well, for a start, we’d never been there, so that would add another country onto our ever-expanding “countries we have been to” list. Secondly, it did not appear to be touristy…and you all know how much I LOVE spots that have been swamped by the masses (sorry, being facetious again). Thirdly, and most importantly, take a look at some pics of those azure skies and turquoise waters! The only thing that seemed to be missing from those pics were….. Alex and I! Samoa……here we come!

2008 was also a transitional year for me, and I found myself doing a great big cull! Out with the old and in with the new. This was not limited to merely things but also people. The reality is that some things simply have a use by date, and that is alright. Sometimes it’s necessary to move on, which often entails leaving both people and things behind. My big lesson was not to feel bad about it, and that actually, it is not even necessarily someone’s “fault”. Having said that, as I get older and debatably wiser, I understand that that is all OK. Some people come into our lives for a short period, others for a longer time. It’s all good! But we need to move forward with tenacity. New beginnings are good for all of us! Linda, Karen and Jesus, I thank the three of you for coming into our lives, and I know it was not by chance – Linda is the Melbourne voice of South America and manages a highly successful band called Inka Marka ; Karen is the loca we love and who is married to Jesus….who is ECUADORIAN! What do you mean, don’t get excited!!!! There are only a handful of Ecuadorians in Melbourne and Karen and I are married to 2 of them! We joke that the boys represent the Melbourne Chapter of the Ecuadorian Society! Through Linda and Karen we have met a multitude of other amazing people, mostly who are either South American/Latino or are married to one! These people help keep my passion of the wonderful world we live in alive!


Greed and contempt, I have left this till last. It is a concept which has both frightened me and distressed me in the last year! I saw it whilst I travelled (and eluded to it in many a blog entry), but once I returned and “settled” it seemed both more obvious and transparent. On so many occasions I have wanted to scream and yell, “Stop the Madness!” How could someone’s biggest problem or hurdle be an extra kilo of weight, or a haircut which was too short, or being upset that their plasma TV was only 30centimetres by 30 centimetres when it could and should be much bigger (which undoubtedly makes it better, no?). I found myself asking myself…..”So, once we have 4 cars, 3 houses, 2 holiday homes, 7 TVs and 30 pairs of shoes…where do we go to from here?” Bigger is better, bigger is better, bigger is better, bigger is better! Are we on a one way street to self destruction or implosion? This is really a topic I am fervent about, and I know that I could go on forever.

On the 4th of January 2009, the day after we returned from Samoa, Alex took off for the USA. A few months earlier, he won a scholarship through Melbourne University to attend the Apple Macintosh World Conference in San Francisco (in layman’s terms he was off to learn more about the bits and bobs around and surrounding and pertaining to Apple Macs). Whilst not quite a techno- phobe , I could be described as techno-slexic , so needless to say, I was doubly impressed when I found out that he’d been selected. After San Fran, Alex flew to New York to see his mum and sister, Angie, who live there. The last time we saw them was in August 2007, at the beginning of our big trip, so needless to say, they were all ecstatic. I cannot say that I find the minus Celsius temperatures alluring. Give me a beach over snow boots any day! Alex learnt a lot at the conference and had a week of quality time with his beautiful mother. (I think I whinged more about the minus 14 degree days than he did). They both thoroughly enjoyed their time together.


So, that’s it! The “condensed” version of 2008......and a smidgeon of how we began 2009.....

NOTE: I will not be writing up a specific entry on our mid-year Thailand trip, because as I explained, it was really just a little diversion to do some shopping…..and get some decent food……and, yeh well, a few other things as well! But, the Samoa blog will be coming soon.

“Uncertainty and expectations are the joys of life. Security is an insipid thing” – William Cooper (poet).

Dedication: To life itself! Cheers! Thanks for a wonderful one!


(Photos:1.- Lto R: James (nephew),Alex & Ben (godson), cooling down, Southbank, Jan 2008. 2.- Man blowing bubbles, Sovereign Hill, Ballarat, early 2008. 3.- Riding with the locals on a bus, Samoa, Dec 2008. 4.-Family excursion to Sovereign Hill. L to R: Fuzz (my brother), Kazz (my sister-in-law), Dino (Dad), myself and James. 5.- I still call Australia home, and in a caffe latte too! 6.- MBK Shopping Centre, Bangkok. Now that's what I call a place to shop! June 2008. 7.- L to R: Alex, Ombi, Pong and Link. Near the infamous Khao San Rd, Bangkok, June 2008. 8.- Samoa here we come...the famous blow holes on the island of Savai'i, Samoa, Dec 2008. 9.- At the Chilean Festival, Lto R:Yael (originally from Bolivia) Linda (Ms South America, Melbourne), Karen (married to an Ecuadorian), and me! second half of 2008. 10.- Food for thought....aboriginal mural on St Georges Rd, on the Thornbury/ Preston border. 11.- Alex, his mum Rocio, and sister Angie, in New York, Jan 2009.)

Wrapping and lapping it up in Bangkok.

As soon as we arrived in Trat (via the back of a pick-up) we made it to the bus station, where we promptly caught the first bus to Bangkok. We just had enough time to grab some munchies, and get on the bus. The ride was rather comfortable, and as it was only five hours, not too long. I couldn't believe it, we actually only had days to go before we'd be back in Melbourne. We'd kept it a big secret, and Dad didn't even know yet. I was planning on telling him once in Bangkok. I felt like I'd died and was racing towards the white light, with my life flashing before me, except this version was a little different. My life went back to August 18th, 2006, when we'd embarked on this journey, after which 27 countries and 16 months flashed before me. Wow! We had seen, done and experienced so much. I figured the end of the tunnel was Melbourne! I felt overwhelmed. I'd lived to be able to tell, yet another of my many travel tales. As most of you would only know too well, there is little that surpasses my love and fascination for the world and its people. My addiction of choice has always been travel!

As we neared the capital, I realised how very big and very modern Bangkok had indeed become. I remember my first trip many, many years ago where it was squalid and very third world. With a population of between 15 and 20 million (basically Australia's entire population) it has become a modern and thriving metropolis, where nothing is unobtainable, if you know where to go. And if you don't, and you are like me, you find out quick smart. On these last days we were on a mission, and that mission included fitting in a few decent massages, visiting the dentist, getting Alex some glasses, and doing some shopping. Yes, you heard correctly, shopping! As most of you know I am so not a shopper, but there's something about Bangkok which at first lures and then unleashes the "bargain shopper within". It was a bit of a tall order to try and fit all that in, but after 16 months, a new outfit of clothes (or two or three or four....) was more of a necessity than a desire. A large number of our clothes were most certainly not going to leave Thailand. They had been worn to death, and we totally over them. OK enough excuses, we just wanted a few new things that we hadn't looked at each and every day for the last 16 months.

We went straight to Lamphu House, where we had also stayed when we were here in mid 2005. It's a treasure of a place which we found coincidentally on our last trip here. Whilst only a block away from Khao San Rd (aka, backpacker central), and the bargain shopping area known as Banglamphu, it was a clean, safe and serene little spot. A good place to come back and relax in between doing all of our bits and pieces. And read on...there were many "bits and pieces to do. When we arrived at Lamphu House, not only did the owners and workers remember us, but they proceeded to show us a picture of us in a Thai Travel journal........of when we were in Cambodia a few years back. We were flabbergasted! The story goes like this: On our last trip here we visited both Thailand and Laos, including some really off-the-beaten track destinations in Laos. We very vaguely remember being photographed, and we end up in a magazine, the photo taking up half a page. What are the chances!

We had arrived in Bangkok on the Friday night. Perfect timing, as every weekend, but only on weekends, Bangkok holds its famous Chatuchuk (or Jatujak) Market. Even the most hardened of shoppers or bargain shoppers would find this a mind blower. I have been here many times on subsequent trips, but it never fails to amaze me. This market is not only the largest in Thailand, but the largest in the world! Consider this: It covers over 35 acres (1.13 km²) and contains more than 15,000 stalls. It is estimated that the market receives between 200,000 and 300,000 visitors each day. The market sells, but is not restricted to, household items, clothing, Thai handicrafts, religious artifacts, collectibles, foods, and even live animals. Check out http://www.jatujakguide.com/main/index.php A sight to behold. So, it was an early rise the next morning. May the shopping begin!

I can assure you that we were not the only ones who had had the "early rise" idea. The market is so megalithic that it's hard to follow any type of path or formula, so we just wandered around. We ended up with watches, shorts, chopsticks, tops for me and various other bits and pieces. Having said that, after years of travelling, and buying, I have become a much more discerning shopper, for a number of reasons. You know, that amazing Mexican sombrero looks amazing in Mexico, but once back home, you find yourself saying: What was I thinking when I bought that and what the heck am I going to do with it here, not to mention where to put it. And those beautiful table runners will certainly look good on the coffee table, but hey, it's going to take a long time to rotate an over abundance of table runners. Now clothes are a completely different story and category! Whilst I would almost rather play golf than go clothes shopping in Australia, when overseas I am always tantalised by the exotic clothes, which are so very much my style. Call it ethnic if you will! I like bright, bold colours that capture and hold the energy of the world and its people. It's a reflection of who I am and what I believe in!

We were knackered after several hours at Chatachuk, but with only days to go before our imminent return to Australia, "cram, cram, cram" was steadfastly becoming our middle name. Making our way back to Lamphu House, we dumped all of our stuff, and continued with our quest to achieve the near impossible. Oh, glasses for Alex. You can get your eyes tested for free here, and the glasses are way cheaper than in Australia. We ended up checking out a few optometrists in the Sukhumvit Rd area (by this stage, it was already Saturday night and we were leaving on the Monday afternoon), and finally found a place with decent designs, and which could have prescription glasses made up by Monday morning. We were cutting a fine line, but it was the best we could do. I had my eyes checked, and it seems that they are still OK.

Megs, Bec and Birdie were all in the Khao San area. Megs was about to go off to Vietnam, and Bec and Birdie had just come back from Cambodia. They were going to spend a few days with Pong and Link, and then make their way to the islands that the rest of us had been to. So, it was time to say goodbye. Unfortunately, both Becs and Megs, got a bit sick, and unfortunately I did not get to see Bec off. Nothing major, just that "dodgy stomach syndrome" which seems to afflict so many western travellers in third or second world countries. We did have a catch up with Bird and Megs though. I couldn't help but wonder where we see them next. Megs would be going back to New Zealand, and Becs.....well, in what "exotic" location would I see her next?

Sunday was spent doing more shopping, and I think a haircut was thrown in there somewhere. We made the most that we could munching on street food, including pad thai and spicy papaya salad. How I am going to miss the Thai street food, which I believe is unrivaled world wide. I can always dream about it! On the Sunday Alex also visited Pantip Plaza, a veritable techno-head's dream come true, with some five storeys of computer stores and stalls, selling everything from the most genuine, as well as openly pirated goods. As my techno interest is somewhat relegated to punching in a few digits on a mobile phone and using e-mail, I decided to visit the MBK shopping centre close by. We both came out of our prospective shopping venture with a few more goods.

December 24th, Monday morning! Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaah only hours to go before we would be returning home. So much was rushing through my mind, with one thought constantly trying to pole vault over another. I was trying to wrap my head around the last 16 months, as well, as do the last minute cram! Of course we still had things to do! Alex had his glasses to pick up, we both had a dentist appointment, and we also both "had" to have a massage. Oh, and I was going to do my best to have a pedicure, manicure and facial as well. Hammer and tongs! That's my style. And let me tell you, it would only be when we finally sat on the plane that we would breathe a sigh of relief, before virtually collapsing. Needless to say, we were able to fit it all in.

Meanwhile back at the ranch, well hotel room, we were packing and culling. Out with the old and in with the new! Many of our tired (as opposed to tried) and true clothes and bits and pieces, would be left behind in Thailand. To be perfectly frank, we were over most of our clothes which we had not only worn to death, but were sick of looking at. And so, with our backpacks full, and a few other bags ready to give away to the reception of the hotel, we said our goodbyes and we were off.

As we sat in a mini-bus on our way to the airport, I could not help but feel how final this all was. It really was coming to an end. I stared intently at the road we were on, and the houses and people we passed, as I grappled with the thought that shortly, very shortly, we would be back in Australia. Hmm, Australia, a world so very different to the many places I had seen and visited. Waves of lots of things actually came over me. How would I fare? How would I feel? What would I think? I was soon about to find out.

We arrived at the airport with plenty of time to spare, so we checked in and walked around a bit, before sitting down. We had brought our own snacks and food, as we were flying Jetstar, who does not get an A1 rating as far as its food goes. Before we knew it, we were boarding. As luck would have it, I got a "bed" for the night. Backtrack.....as we were flying home on Christmas Eve (to arrive on Christmas Day) the plane did not have all that many passengers. What I eyeballed almost immediately was the row of four vacant seats behind me. Thank you very much! A backpacker 'till the end, I popped up all the armrests, extended my body across the entire space, placed my ever faithful sarong over myself and placed my eye cover on. I had a fantastic night's sleep, thank you very much!

I woke up not long before touch down. Flying over Melbourne was just as I remembered it. Too much like I remembered actually. Everything went smoothly, we picked up our bags, went through customs, where we had to wait ages to declare a couple of sets of chopsticks. If our biggest problem was having to line up for a little too long, it was minuscule in respect to many of the world's problems as we had seen them.

Alack and alas, we finally made it through the automatic doors, and waiting for us, ever faithful as always, was Dad. Hugs all around, many kisses, a decent caffe latte, and we were off. We were off to Fulvio and Karen's (my brother and sister-in-law) for lunch, and they had no idea at all!

And with this, our phenomenal 16 month sojourn came to an end! Only time would tell, how we would fare with "normality" and routine. As I walked outside into the open, fresh air, I sighed deeply. I was indeed happy to be back home!

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Dedication: This one is for my Mum, Adiga (Addie) Zanetti. Thanks for watching over me Mum. I felt your presence with me and know that you were always by my side. Your physical persona is gone, but your love, passion and strength of character have been my guide. Thank you for making me who I am today.

"If you stand for nothing, you will fall for anything".

NOTE: It is the 20th of July 2008, and this blog is being published some 7 months after the end of our trip. It is the last one on these travels. So much has happened since then. Alex and I are both working, and we also both went back to Thailand for 10 days in May/ June. Whilst I feel that this blog somewhat concludes the stories of our long time away and gives an insight into "the world according to Ombi and Alex", there is still so much that I would like to talk about and share. Both with full time jobs, whilst time is not our worst enemy, neither is it our best friend........WATCH THIS SPACE!!!!!!!!!

(Photos: 1.- On a pick-up truck back to Trat, making our way back to Bangkok. 2.- Bangkok aint what it used to be! 3.- Khao San Road by night, Bangkok. 4.- Chatuchuk Market, Bangkok. 5.- The many exotic flavours of Thailand. 6.- The Bangkok sky train. 7.- MBK shopping mall; a veritable shopper's paradise, Bangkok. 8.- Alex having a massage, Khao San Road area. 9.- Tuk-tuk parked near the Grand Palace. 10.- Coming home; flying over Australian soil, well, water! 11.- A map of all the places we visited.)

Secluded bliss, at long last.

We had been travelling for close to 16 months and whilst culturally and spiritually invigorated, we were physically spent! I am usually into "doing" something rather than simply laying about, but I cannot begin to tell you how tantalising the whole idea of lying around on a secluded beach was steadfastly becoming. We had talked about what our last few weeks would look like, and now that time had come, we were ready. We wanted a couple of weeks on a spectacular beach doing absolutely nothing, before coming back to Bangkok, to fit in some shopping (and a few other things).But where in Thailand would we go? To what beach or area? Needless to say, the likes of Pattaya, Phuket and Ko Samui did not even make the top 100. Glitz, glam and sleaze were not on the agenda! (By this stage I was precariously close to wanting to do battle with anyone who even remotely looked like they were trying to crack onto the local delicacies).

As usual, our next destination lay only a few days ahead of us. That's to say, that we usually only decided on "what's next" from one place to the next. We did a bit of on-line investigating, whilst also flipping through our guide book, and the general consensus seemed to be that if we wanted to elude the masses, we needed to go somewhere along the Gulf of Thailand, close to the Cambodian border. Ko Chang looked like a good option, so in the days after Pong and Link's wedding we were off. One of Bangkok's bus terminals, the Eastern Bus Terminal, was within walking distance, and luckily for us it was the place where we needed to go to, to reach our next destination, Trat, from where we would then have to catch a ferry on to Ko Chang. Bec and Birdie saw us off, and before we knew it, along with Megs, we were on our way. I wondered where I would see Bec next, as she and Birdie were off to Cambodia in the next few days.

The ride was only some six hours, but we would have to spend the night in Trat, as it was too late to catch a ferry. Once there, we figured that we may as well stay a couple of days. At the bus station, we were met by the owner of Pop Guest House, who told us that she had some accommodation available. We all figured that we may as well go check it out. It was at the bus station that we also met the lovely Maya, from France. So, off we went to take a look at Pop. As usual, we did the usual check a few places out, but ended up back at Pop, which was very clean and comfortable. Unfortunately, despite being listed in the Lonely Planet guide book, we most certainly did not find that "staying at this homely place is like visiting your -mum. The owner will pamper you silly". The husband and owner duo were a mean-spirited couple who only cared to pamper you silly if you ate at their restaurant and used all of their services. In true Ombi form, I did none of that. They were NOT happy campers, and on realising that they could not milk us, they were quite rude. The straw that broke the camel's back was when I was accused, inadvertently of course, that I had stolen a pair of thongs! As if! Not having wounded me too deeply or personally, I was still able to enjoy Trat, especially its central market. Thailand is a foodie's dream come true, and this market did not disappoint. But...........how much can one try? Speaking for Alex, Maya and Megs too, I would say....quite a lot actually!

Whilst in Trat, we chatted to a few people who had been to Ko Chang, and it appeared that it was no longer the idyllic haven it had once been. We had heard that one guy who had been going for the past 20 years, recently spent a night there, and returned, disillusioned! Why? It was quickly moving towards glitz, glam and sleaze alley. No thanks! A bit more research (again via internet and people who had recently been there), and we decided on Ko Mak. This place seemed small (only 16 square kilometres), with supposedly few tourists, and lots of stretches of sparkling golden sand and azure seas. I think we'd found what we were looking for. We caught a ferry out there, and I was blown away as we started to approach the island. Be careful of what you ask for though, as you may just get it! We arrived at sunset, and despite the throngs of mozzies(they say dog is a man's best friend, well, mozzies are mine!), the view was spectacular. The secluded island we had dreamed about was.......real! We ended up at a place called Sunset Resort. It was bungalow style accommodation, and whilst passable, not what we were really looking for. Whilst we did not want the Hilton, we wanted our last weeks to be relaxing and comfortable. We had earned this! Thanks to Jo and Will, a Belgian couple we met at Sunrise, we ended up moving to Pano Resort the next day (please, please, please click on the link). It was really, really beautiful....and deserted....that's the place not just the beach. So, we really did have it to ourselves.

What can I say? We spent a week at Pano, and did..........nothing except for sun bake, laze around, sleep, eat, and Megs and I would go for walks. The young couple who managed Pano, Bow and Boy, were sweet and friendly, and many a night was held sitting in the outdoor/restaurant area, eating food, which they often gave us to "try". Of course we also bought food there, as on an island you have few options: the resort/ hotel food, a few local restaurants and a couple of grocery shops. Jane was the front-of-house person, who was also our means of transportation. As the island is so small, there are no taxis, and transport is via the vehicle the hotel provides. Having said that, most places were no more than 10 minutes away. Jane was also a keen soccer player, who seemed to be able to fit in this activity several times a week. Definitely the tom boy I once was, and whom many would argue, still am. Then there was the cook, O, and her little baby, Aum, who would smile cheekily on the several occasions we came back and gave her a bar of chocolate.

Although there was a tiny stretch of sand in front of Pano Resort, and certainly enough to read and sun bake on, we went in search of deeper waters (and wider stretches of sand). We found and were taken to a several beautiful spots, which I had thought only "lived" on glossy travel mag covers, or in a movie. Beautiful, tranquil, and relaxing! Alex tells me that all of the seafood he had was scrumptious. We also found a local restaurant, Pa Toom, that we visited a lot. Although the owner, naming the restaurant after herself, spoke little English, and we non-existent Thai, we were somehow able to communicate. It was usually more hit than miss and the food cheap and tasty. "Pet, pet" (hot, hot) I would ask for...remember what I said about being careful for what you asked for. Talk about shaving a layer or two off my palate! We kept coming back though. Not many internet choices on the island, except for one expensive one close to the pier, which we only used briefly on a couple of occasions. That's island life, where most things are more expensive due to the isolation. Oh, but so very worth it!

Ko Mak is a relatively small island, covering an area of 16 square kilometres. It truly has a tropical island feel to it, and you are never too far from a palm-fringed beach (stereotypes are so adequate in creating the image, aren't they?). The scenery mainly comprises of rubber and coconut plantations (yes, we sat on the beach munching on some hand-picked coconuts). Transportation is by foot, motorbike, bicycle or hotel vehicles. Cars are virtually non-existent, as there are so few roads. There is electricity, but it has not been around for all that long. In late 2006, it was rated as one of the "World's Top 10 Secret Beaches". By Aussie standards, that's quite a tall order, but it is truly justified. The secret is out! So, if you visit, leave only your footsteps! We do not want another Pattaya!

We also managed to scuba dive on the island. There are only three schools and we chose Ploy Scuba Diving. Realistically, how bad can diving off a non-mainstream, and secluded island be? We took a speed boat out, and did two wonderful dives, and the conditions were brilliant. As I have mentioned before, it's another world down there. Each place we have visited (diving) has been different; like its on-land counterparts, the sea also has a variety of different species and plant life. There is however something unnerving about "breathing" underwater. It's this amazing sensation, which at the same time is juxtaposed with this bizarre feeling of something somewhat unnatural. It's not for everybody, but say I: You have to try everything in life at least once, and if you like it, keep going back for more!
After a week or so of lazing, eating, diving, sun baking, eating, sleeping, lazing, relaxing......oh, sorry, got carried away.....we decided to move onto another small and secluded island. Have I mentioned what a hard life this is? We were on a roll. Decisions, decisions. Ko Kood, here we come. Again, we took an inter-island speedboat. Getting there was half the fun, as we flew past a crystalline sea, scattered with a multitude of islands, some tiny and with only a solitary palm tree. Just when we thought it couldn't get any better, it could, and it did! Stuff that movies are made of!

We were on Ko Kood (or Ko Kut) in what appeared to be no time at all. Covering 105 square kilometres, although obviously bigger than Ko Mak, being further south, it also seemed more isolated. There were very few people on our speedboat, and the few that were on it, seemed to have resort-style accommodation organised. We checked out a la-de-dah style place at first, but soon found Mark House Bungalows. What a place, tranquil, relaxing and only minutes away from the beach. Will I go on ad nauseum about the beach? Why not! More golden stretches of sand, confronting a sea whose beautiful clear waters were remarkably pristine, all amongst a backdrop of drooping coconut palms. Ah, la isla bonita! Talk about unleashing the romantic (or the very tired and weary traveller) within. The kind of place where stereotypes really do the whole set up justice.

I probably shouldn't be letting the cat out of the bag here, but Ko Kood's remote location has ensured that it hasn't attracted the masses of people or developers looking to make a few quick bucks, oops,baht. This makes it yet another idyllic island get away. But, take heed! Same rule applies as Ko Mak, if you come visit, leave your footprints and nothing else! We noticed almost immediately that whilst bigger, there were certainly less people. Mark House Bungalows were actually Balinese style bungalows, which were both right on the Klong-Jao River and only 100 metres away from the Klong-Jao beach. A simple and clean wooden bungalow, with ceiling fan and outdoor shower, we could vividly see the spectacular blue sea, and the white sand beaches lined with coconut trees from our porch. I truly sigh deeply as I recall that view. I remember thinking, at this point, how very close we were to returning home. What would await us and how would we cope? What would be in the jungle that awaited us?

So, how did we spend our days? I began my day with a run along the beach (and if it wasn't in the morning it was just before dusk) as I dragged myself out of sun bake mode. Mark House included free coffee, tea, and bread, so we would start our day with this as well as some fresh pineapple and yogurt. Pineapples from tropical locations and which have not been cold stored are phenomenal! Instead of being tart and tasteless, they are sweet and succulent. Yum! After a lazy lunch we would either go to the beach right in front of us, or take a walk in either direction, to find an even more secluded and tucked away beach. This was supposed to be their high season, and whilst the locals were not too excited about a lack of people, Alex and I felt like we had hit the jackpot. During the day, we would munch on a little something to tie us over, and once home, showered and rested, we would hit one of the local restaurants for dinner. One in particular, had such an amazing vegetarian green curry, that we were ordering it almost every night. "Pet, pet", please! Hot, but amazing, we beaded liked we'd done an hour in the sauna!

Mark House also included free kayaks and we kayaked on both the river and beach on several occasions. Whilst their concept of safety is completely different to ours, we had lots of fun. Life jackets? What are they? Get in and she'll be right mate! Well, I am a water baby, and I used to be a life guard and swimming teacher, so I was undeterred. As day turned into night, the views from the kayak were particularly amazing. This island had an ethereal, almost surreal quality. Is this where people in utopia live? We also visited the Klong Chao Waterfall, which was a relatively short walk from where we were staying. By world standards, I must say that it was rather average, and the surroundings not very clean, which did nothing to entice me into the water, despite the fact that it was an extremely hot day. Alex was a better person than I was, and hopped in for a quick splash. On the walk back, we befriended some Thai people, that were returning from a picnic at the falls, who kept offering us beer. They had limited English, and well, what can I say about my Thai, but somehow, we made ourselves understood. Through sign language I tried to explain that I just did not like beer. Surely Alex liked beer? He obliged and they were stoked. It was a brilliant exercise in camaraderie, and it's amazing how others can be so genuine if you show even the slightest bit of interest.

A quick note on this island: Several small resorts on the island cater to mostly Thai tourists who prefer a quiet and family-friendly atmosphere. So far, thankfully, there aren't the ridiculously over-the-top style resorts that many westerners seem to prefer. Thus, there aren't that many foreigners on the island, and those of us that do find this little haven, are more than happy with it the way it is, thank you very much. We had spent nearly a week on Ko Kood, and we had not seen a solitary vendor selling tacky t-shirts, souvenir wood carvings or henna tattoos. Let's just hope it stays this way!

You know what they say about good things? Utopia had come to an end, and before we knew it, we were on a small speedboat, making our way back to Trat. As the sun sparkled in our eyes and danced on the water, the wind whipped through our hair, and as we looked back the coconut trees got smaller and smaller as Ko Kut's utopian golden beach faded into oblivion. I felt both euphoric and sad at the same time. In my mind's eye, I blew the island a kiss and told it that I would one day see it again!

Ombi

"The only real mistake is the one from which we learn nothing." - John Powell

(Photos: 1.- Bangkok skyline. It's come a long way from the backwaters of only a few years ago. 2.- On the ferry from Trat to Ko Mak (Mak Island). 3.- Ombi and Megs on the ferry from Trat to Ko Mak - what can I say about how difficult life is! 4.- The morning view from Sunset Resort, Ko Mak. No silicone, no airbrushing and no colour enhancements. This is it! 5.- The crew at Pano Resort, Ko Mak. 6.- Megs and Alex on one of Ko Mak's spectacular beaches.....doing an ad for Toyota! 7.- Another un-airbrushed un-siliconed Ko Mak beach...secluded, of course. 8.- Ombi with the dive instructor of Ploy Scuba Diving. Between "dive breaks", there was some lunch and a rest on yet another secluded island! 9.- Who remembers Bo Derek? Well, that's Bo Ombi...sunset in Ko Kood (Kood Island). 10.- More idyllic bliss, Ko Kood. 11.- Alex with a plethora of fine Thai food on Ko Kood.....happier than a pig in the proverbial! 12.- Kayaking whilst watching the sunset, Ko Kood. 13.- Alex with a group of happy Thais, walking back from the Klong Chao Waterfall, Ko Kood. 14.- A secluded Ko Kood Beach (I know I am bashing the word secluded to death.....but I am truly telling it as it is). 15.- Goodbye Ko Kood! On the ferry back to Trat. 16.- Sunset on Ko Kood. 17.- These hiking shoes were new when I bought them in Australia just before we left. They had been worn to death, and it was time to lay them down to rest!)